How to build a rounded-top bedside cabinet, 20" × 16" × 24"

Cut list

Step by step

1. Round corners and shape notches

   Round the top's upper perimeter and shape both finger notches before assembly.

   • Mark each notch center at the top-edge midpoint, with arc ends 3/4" either side.
   • Trace a 3/4" radius semicircle below each top edge.
   • Clamp each front on sacrificial support with the notch area clear.
   • Saw only the marked arc with the jigsaw from the top edge.
   • Route a 1/4" radius around the clamped top’s upper perimeter in shallow passes.
   • Sand the routed corners and notch edges smooth.

2. Assemble the cabinet case

   Clamp the shelves between the sides and screw the top onto the square case.

   • Mark shelf undersides 1 1/2", 8 1/2", and 15 1/4" above the side bottoms.
   • Clamp the shelves between the sides with their front edges flush.
   • Drill countersunk 5/32" clearance holes through the sides at the marked screw centers.
   • Drill 3/32" pilot holes into the shelf edges using a depth stop.
   • Drive the 1 1/2" shelf screws flush.
   • Attach the top with 4 predrilled 1 1/2" screws.

3. Square and attach the back

   Hold the case square while fastening the rear panel to both sides and all three shelves.

   • Lay the case face down on a padded, flat support.
   • Clamp the rear panel flush with the side bottoms and outer edges.
   • Compare the case diagonals.
   • Drill countersunk 9/64" clearance holes at the rear-panel screw centers.
   • Drill 3/32" pilot holes into the framing edges with a depth stop.
   • Drive the 1" screws flush without crushing the veneer.

4. Assemble both drawer boxes

   Screw together the drawer sides and ends, then attach their full-width bottoms.

   • Clamp each front and rear between its drawer sides.
   • Drill countersunk 9/64" clearance holes through the sides at the screw centers.
   • Drill 3/32" pilot holes into the end edges with a depth stop.
   • Drive the 1" corner screws flush.
   • Clamp each bottom flush with all four box edges.
   • Attach each bottom with 10 predrilled 1" screws from underneath.

5. Attach the drawer fronts

   Fasten each shaped front from inside its drawer box.

   • Center each applied front across its matching box.
   • Set each applied front bottom 1/8" above the drawer bottom underside.
   • Clamp the fronts against the box fronts.
   • Drill countersunk 9/64" clearance holes through the box fronts from inside.
   • Drill 3/32" pilots no deeper than 1/2" into the applied fronts.
   • Drive 4 concealed 1" screws into each applied front.

6. Attach the rear stops

   Install rear stops on the two drawer-bearing shelves.

   • Center one stop across each drawer-bearing shelf.
   • Seat the stops against the inside face of the back.
   • Clamp each stop securely.
   • Drill countersunk 5/32" clearance holes through the stops.
   • Drill 3/32" pilots no deeper than 1/2" into the shelves.
   • Drive 2 screws of 1 1/4" length into each stop.

7. Sand and finish

   Smooth the rounded top and exposed edges, then apply a clear finish with the drawers removed.

   • Sand exposed edges lightly with 180-grit abrasive.
   • Smooth the broad surfaces with 220-grit abrasive.
   • Remove sanding dust.
   • Apply thin clear coats according to the finish label.
   • Allow the finish to cure fully before fitting the drawers.

8. Fit and check the drawers

   Wax the bearing surfaces and fit the removable drawers without loading the cabinet.

   • Rub a thin film of paste wax onto the cured drawer-bearing surfaces.
   • Buff away excess wax.
   • Slide each drawer onto its shelf until it meets the rear stop.
   • Check each drawer separately through a short opening travel.
   • Arrange a site-appropriate anti-tip restraint before putting the cabinet into service.