How to build a 84" × 48" × 20" tall-tool cabinet with shaker doors

Cut list

Step by step

1. Shape the door frames

   Form complementary half-laps and rear panel rabbets with the table saw.

   • Mark the 2 1/2" corner laps on each rail and stile.
   • Clamp a stop block to the crosscut sled for matching lap shoulders.
   • Remove 3/8" from the stile backs and rail fronts at each lap.
   • Form the 3/8" wide × 1/4" deep rear rabbets along the inner edges.
   • Drill the knob holes at 42" above the finished floor over a backing block.
   • Test the dry frames for flush faces and matching diagonals.

2. Prepare edges and molding

   Miter the top edging and smooth the cut parts before assembly.

   • Clamp the screen molding upright against the miter-box back.
   • Saw the marked end miters with a backsaw.
   • Sand exposed faces with 120-grit abrasive.
   • Smooth the faces with 180-grit abrasive.
   • Ease sharp edges without rounding glue surfaces.

3. Attach the six legs

   Attach three front-and-rear pairs of short legs beneath the bottom.

   • Lay the bottom upside down on a padded bench.
   • Clamp the six legs beneath their marked positions.
   • Drill two clearance holes through the bottom above each leg.
   • Drill 3/32" pilots into the leg ends.
   • Drive the twelve 2 1/2" screws from the upper face of the bottom.

4. Attach the side cleats

   Attach the top cleats while the side panels are flat and accessible.

   • Lay each side inside-face up on a padded bench.
   • Clamp its 12" cleat flush with the upper edge.
   • Set the cleat front 3 1/4" behind the side front.
   • Drill clearance holes and 3/32" pilots at the marked screw positions.
   • Drive two 2" screws through each cleat into its side.

5. Join the cabinet sides

   Join both sides to the bottom and the front upper cleat.

   • Lay the assembly on a padded, level work surface with a helper.
   • Clamp the sides against the bottom ends with their lower edges flush.
   • Clamp the front upper cleat between the sides at their upper front corners.
   • Drill clearance holes and 3/32" pilots on the marked screw centers.
   • Drive the 1 1/2" screws through the sides into the bottom and upper cleat.
   • Square the rectangle with matching diagonal measurements.

6. Square and attach the back

   Fasten the back to the sides and bottom while the carcass is square.

   • Support the cabinet face-down on padded blocks.
   • Clamp the back flush with the carcass edges.
   • Compare both diagonals before tightening the clamps.
   • Drill the rear clearance holes and edge pilots.
   • Drive the 1 1/2" screws into both side edges and the bottom edge.

7. Attach the face frame

   Glue and pin the face frame over the plywood front edges.

   • Dry-fit the stiles flush with the outer side edges.
   • Fit the rails between the stiles with the outer ends square.
   • Spread glue on the backing contacts and rail ends.
   • Clamp the frame with all front faces flush.
   • Pin the frame with 3/4" brads using a hammer and nail set.
   • Wipe away glue squeeze-out.

8. Fasten the top from below

   Secure the top from below without piercing its show face.

   • Center the plywood top over the carcass.
   • Set its front edge 3/4" ahead of the face frame.
   • Clamp the top against all three cleats.
   • Drill clearance holes through the cleats with a depth stop.
   • Drive seven 1 1/4" screws upward into the top.

9. Edge the plywood top

   Glue and pin the mitered screen molding around the top.

   • Dry-fit all four edging pieces around the top.
   • Shave any gapped miter with the backsaw in the clamped miter box.
   • Spread glue on the plywood edges.
   • Clamp the edging flush with the top surface.
   • Pin the edging with 3/4" brads using a hammer and nail set.

10. Glue the shaker doors

    Glue the half-lapped door frames and recessed plywood panels on a flat bench.

    • Dry-fit each frame around its recessed plywood panel.
    • Spread glue over the four half-laps and rear rabbet ledges.
    • Seat the panel with its back flush to the frame.
    • Clamp the corners between flat padded cauls.
    • Compare the diagonals before the glue sets.
    • Leave each door flat until the glue reaches its specified cure.

11. Fill and paint

    Fill fixed trim seams and paint the cabinet and both faces of each door.

    • Fill brad holes and shallow surface defects.
    • Caulk fixed trim seams sparingly.
    • Sand repaired areas smooth with 180-grit abrasive.
    • Prime the plywood, pine, and door edges.
    • Paint all exposed surfaces and both door faces.
    • Allow the finish to cure before fitting hardware.

12. Hang doors and fit knobs

    Hang both doors with four hinges each and fit the two knobs.

    • Support each door in the opening on 1/8" spacers.
    • Mark hinge centers 6", 27", 48", and 69" above each door bottom.
    • Drill shallow pilots using the selected hinge template.
    • Fasten each hinge with six #8 × 5/8" pan-head screws.
    • Fit both knobs through the prepared holes at 42" above the floor.
    • Adjust the hinges for even reveals and free movement.

13. Restrain and check the cabinet

    Level the six-leg cabinet and secure both anti-tip restraints before loading it.

    • Position the cabinet on a dry, level indoor floor with a helper.
    • Check all six legs for firm floor contact.
    • Inspect the wall for suitable structure and concealed services.
    • Attach both cabinet straps over the side edges near the back top.
    • Secure the wall ends with fixings selected for the verified wall construction.
    • Test door movement before placing tools inside.