How to build an entry cabinet — 38" × 18" × 45 3/4"

Cut list

Step by step

1. Prepare the surfaces

   Drill the knob and access holes and smooth the cut parts before assembly.

   • Mark each face centre 7 1/4" above its bottom.
   • Clamp each drilled part over a sacrificial backing block.
   • Drill the 5 face holes with a 3/16" bit.
   • Drill a 1/2" access hole at each box-front centre, 6 3/4" above its bottom.
   • Sand the parts with 180-grit paper along the grain.
   • Ease the exposed edges without rounding the joining edges.

2. Attach the top cleats

   Attach the extended top cleats while both side panels lie flat and accessible.

   • Lay the sides with their inside faces upward.
   • Clamp each cleat flush with the side top and 1" behind its front.
   • Drill clearance holes through the cleats at the marked screw positions.
   • Pilot the sides with a depth stop set for 1/2" penetration.
   • Drive 2 screws through each cleat with the 2" screws.

3. Assemble the cabinet body

   Join the deeper cabinet with its recessed shelf supporting the upper divider.

   • Mark shelf undersides 3", 13 1/8" and 33 7/8" above the side bottoms.
   • Clamp the shelves with only the middle shelf recessed 7/8" from the side fronts.
   • Centre the divider between the two upper shelves with its front flush with the sides.
   • Clamp the rear rail with its top 42 3/4" above the side bottoms.
   • Drill pilot holes and shallow countersinks at the marked screw positions.
   • Drive the 1 1/2" screws through the sides and shelves.

4. Square and close the back

   Square the cabinet and fasten the retained back at its new rear position.

   • Lay the cabinet face down on padded supports.
   • Clamp the back flush with the side-panel edges.
   • Compare the two corner-to-corner measurements.
   • Adjust the cabinet until those measurements match.
   • Pilot the back at the marked screw positions.
   • Drive the 3/4" screws without crushing the plywood face.

5. Glue the deeper top

   Edge-glue the rear pine board to the retained top board before fitting the rim.

   • Dry-fit the two long glue edges on a flat, protected bench.
   • Spread a thin glue film along both mating edges.
   • Clamp the boards together with alternating clamps above and below.
   • Align the top faces with protected cauls.
   • Remove the squeezed-out glue before it hardens.
   • Leave the panel clamped for the glue maker's stated curing time.

6. Build the raised-edge top

   Glue and pin the front edging and deeper three-sided rim, then fasten the top from below.

   • Dry-fit the edging and the three raised rim pieces.
   • Spread glue over the joining faces.
   • Clamp the edging flush with the top surface.
   • Pin the edging and rim with 1 1/4" brads.
   • Centre the cured top over the cabinet.
   • Drive the 6 top screws upward through the cleats.

7. Assemble the drawer boxes

   Assemble the five deeper boxes while retaining the thicker full-width lower bottom.

   • Clamp each box with its ends between its sides.
   • Pilot the end-panel edges through the side screw positions.
   • Drive the 1 1/4" box screws with their heads flush.
   • Compare the box diagonals before fitting the bottoms.
   • Clamp each bottom flush with all four box edges.
   • Fasten the wide bottom with 1" screws and the other bottoms with 3/4" screws.

8. Attach the drawer faces

   Attach the five retained inset solid-wood drawer faces from inside their boxes.

   • Centre each face across its drawer box.
   • Set each face bottom 1/2" below the box-side bottoms.
   • Clamp the faces without denting the wood.
   • Drill clearance holes through the box fronts.
   • Pilot the solid faces with a depth stop set for 1/2" penetration.
   • Drive the 1" screws from inside the boxes.

9. Install slides and knobs

   Install five pairs of longer slides, adjust the retained inset reveals and attach the knobs.

   • Mark level slide lines 8 1/2", 18 1/2" and 28 1/2" above the side bottoms.
   • Screw the cabinet members on those lines, set back 7/8" from the front.
   • Screw the drawer members flush with the box fronts at matching heights.
   • Slide the drawers fully into the cabinet.
   • Adjust the slots for consistent 1/8" face reveals.
   • Fit the remaining slide screws and the 5 knobs.

10. Fill and paint

    Fill exposed fastener holes and paint the cabinet after the dry-fit checks.

    • Remove the drawers and knobs.
    • Mask the slides and their moving surfaces.
    • Fill the exposed screw and brad recesses.
    • Sand the filled areas with 220-grit paper.
    • Prime the pine and exposed plywood edges.
    • Apply cabinet enamel according to its label.

11. Secure before first use

    Restrain the deeper cabinet to verified wall structure before using the drawers.

    • Inspect the wall for structure, services and suitable anchor locations.
    • Position the cabinet without obstructing the corridor or nearby doors.
    • Pilot the restraint plate holes through the back into the solid rear rail.
    • Attach the horizontal cabinet plate with 2 pan-head 3/4" screws.
    • Secure the tether to suitable wall fixings according to its instructions.
    • Reinstall the drawers and knobs after the finish cures.